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A two-month break from Swiss Climate allows me to switch off my mind and let my legs pedal away.
Packed in waterproof bags are a tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, a small stove, rain gear, repair kits, spare tubes, and swimsuits. Only the most essential clothing items are packed. The plan is to start in Switzerland, take a detour through Tuscany and the Abruzzo region to reach Rome. Then, take the ferry to Sardinia, cross Corsica, and finally travel from Nice over the Alps back home. Undoubtedly, flat terrain will be rare. The elevation profile will follow a zigzag pattern, like crocodile teeth drawn by a child.
In recent years, bikepacking has experienced a rise in popularity in Europe. The difference from traditional bicycle touring is that bikepacking involves traveling with the lightest possible baggage and attaching the bags directly to the frame, saddle, and handlebars. This shifts the center of gravity to the middle, making the bike more suitable for off-road terrain. Despite this growing popularity, European railway infrastructure is unfortunately still not bicycle-friendly. There are often no reservation options, insufficient space, or bicycles are outright prohibited. My route, however, only involves waterways. Taking a bike on a ferry is generally straightforward. Thus, I rolled onto and off a ship three times without having to remove the bags.
While the Sardinians reacted to my solitude with "oh molto pericoloso signorina," the Corsicans simply nodded with a brief "bravo courage." Traveling alone forces a certain openness and leads to wonderful encounters. For instance, due to heavy fog, I camped in a stranger's garden and was invited by the family to a birthday dinner. After some cake and a lively game of UNO, it's easier to fall asleep. Another time, an elderly woman on crutches made me sandwiches for the next pass. She chuckled, saying, "Wanting to get something to eat during siesta time - a rookie mistake." Once, a highway underpass turned into a muddy lake that we had to push our bikes through, along with ourselves. We arrived completely covered in mud at dusk in a suburb of Rome. A Roman family got us dinner from their shop and gave us a ride to their private property. There’s nothing more romantic than camping in the countryside near the highway. It was notable that even the tiniest village had a Bar Centrale on the main square. After a short conversation with the locals about the weather or my destination for the day, my wallet often stayed in my pocket for the espresso.
Not only did the winding mountain passes get my adrenaline pumping, but dogs, especially Abruzzese guard dogs, came dangerously close to my calves. Additionally, seeing wild boar piglets and their mother’s rear end on a gravel descent was far from thrilling. However, from a rational perspective, the traffic in Rome posed the greatest danger on my journey.
Although carbon balances, risk analyses, and TCFD mandates had long since faded into the background, the topic of the climate crisis often came up. On a plateau in the Abruzzo, we cycled past ski resorts. A guesthouse owner reported worriedly, "We didn’t get even a hint of snow in the winter of 2023/24. As a result, many Roman tourists stayed away." Near the highest pass in Corsica, the Col de Vergio, I struck up a conversation with a forester over coffee. The forests at almost 1500 meters above sea level were already stressed by dryness in the spring. The big snow, which serves as an important water reserve for plants in the summer, also failed to appear here. "The Corsican black pine adapts best to global warming," added the man in chunky hiking boots. Another example: crossing the more than 150 km wide Po Valley from Lake Garda to Bologna was physically demanding. Tailwind, gelato, and espressos helped. For this region, the Italian government was once again forced to issue a water plan to farmers, specifying how individual farms are allowed to irrigate their fields. In other words, I was grateful for every dry day on the bike and at the same time, nature was craving rainfall.
This came during the crossing of the Alps towards Switzerland. And it came in the form of snow. Suddenly, one longs for gelato and sun again.
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